In my house, where the children forever negotiate what they’ll be given at mealtimes while the grownups keep pledging (in vain, obviously), “I’m not getting into this conversation”, chicken is the one food that unifies the family ranks. It appears on our table in endless configurations, the simple traybake being the most popular with cooks and little mouths alike. Just like those other two childhood favourites, pasta and pancakes, it’s convenient, versatile, delicious and never the bone of any contention.
‘Fried’ buttermilk chicken thighs (pictured above)
This is the fried chicken for those who don’t necessarily want to be, well, frying their chicken. My kids went as crazy for this as I think they would in a KFC.
Prep 3 min
Marinate 1 hr
Cook 55 min
Serves 4
2 tsp paprika
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
200g buttermilk
Salt and pepper
8 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in (about 1kg in total)
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp panko breadcrumbs
In a large bowl, whisk together the paprika, garlic and buttermilk with three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper. Add the chicken thighs, toss well to coat, then set aside in the fridge to marinate for at least an hour, or preferably overnight.
Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Spread out the chicken skin side up on a 25cm x 35cm oven tray lined with baking paper, then roast for 40 minutes, basting once or twice.
Increase the oven temperature to 220C/425F/gas 7, drizzle the oil over the chicken, then sprinkle the breadcrumbs evenly on top. Bake for 10-15 minutes more, until dark golden brown, leave to rest for a few minutes and serve warm.
Roast chicken with sweet miso glaze, sticky rice and kimchi
This isn’t strictly child-friendly, but could easily be made so by losing the chilli and kimchi. There are lots of recipes around if you want to make your own kimchi, but it’s increasingly available in large supermarkets, as well as in Asian grocers. You could also use sauerkraut with some chilli flakes folded through it, or just leave out the kimchi element altogether. This dish is inspired by one I had at the wonderful Tasty n Sons in Portland, Oregon.
Prep 5 min
Marinate 1 hr
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
35g white miso paste
30g tomato paste
1½ tbsp rice vinegar
2½ tbsp maple syrup
6 fresh makrut lime leaves
3 red chillies, cut in half lengthways
4cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt
8 large chicken thighs, skin on and bone in (about 1.2kg in total)
300g Thai sticky glutinous rice
To serve
1 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
2 spring onions, finely sliced on an angle
200g kimchi
Put the first seven ingredients into a large bowl with three tablespoons of water and three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt. Mix until smooth, then add the chicken, toss to coat, then put in the fridge to marinate for at least an hour or ideally overnight.
Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas 4. Lay the chicken skin side up in a 22cm x 30cm high-sided baking dish, so it fits snugly. Pour the marinade and aromatics over, then roast for 35 minutes, basting now and then, until the chicken is nearly cooked and starting to brown. Turn up the oven to 220C/425F/gas 7 and roast for 15 minutes more, until the chicken is dark golden brown on top and the sauce is thick and sticky.
Remove from the oven and set aside. If the sauce is still on the thin side, tip it into a small saucepan and boil rapidly for a few minutes, until thick enough to coat the chicken.
While the chicken is cooking, put the rice in a medium saucepan for which you have a well-fitting lid and add a quarter-teaspoon of salt and 450ml water. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently for 15 minutes. Take off the heat and set aside for five minutes, still covered, until all the water is absorbed and the rice is cooked and sticky.
Divide the rice and chicken between four plates. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and spring onion, and serve with a generous spoonful of kimchi alongside.
Coronation chicken and broccoli bake
My colleague Esme Howarth’s mother cooked a version of this for her throughout her childhood. When Esme recently asked for the recipe, she was told it had condensed chicken soup in it, as well as evaporated milk and Hellman’s mayonnaise. I do like short cuts, but possibly not so many, so my version doesn’t taste quite the same, though Esme concedes that it’s still pretty darned good. Serve with plain rice or mashed potato.
Prep 15 min
Cook 55 min
Serves 4-6
4 skinless chicken breasts, cut widthways into 2cm-thick slices
3 tsp mild curry powder
Salt and black pepper
80g unsalted butter
2 broccoli heads, cut into 3-4cm florets (about 550g)
2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
250ml double cream
250ml chicken stock
40g raisins
1 lemon, zest finely grated, to get 1 tsp, and juiced, to get 1½ tbsp
10g tarragon leaves, roughly chopped
140g mature cheddar, roughly grated
30g panko breadcrumbs
Heat the oven to 190C/375F/gas 5. In a bowl, mix the chicken with two teaspoons of curry powder, half a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Melt 10g butter in a large saute pan on a high heat, then fry half the chicken for a minute on each side, until browned. Remove from the pan, add another 10g butter and repeat with the rest of the chicken.
Half-fill a medium saucepan with salted water, bring to a boil, then blanch the broccoli for a minute or two, so it still has bite (or lightly steam it). Drain, refresh and leave in the colander to dry.
Melt 40g butter in the same saute pan on a medium-high heat and, once it starts to foam, fry the onion, stirring now and then, for eight or nine minutes, until soft and caramelised. Stir in the garlic and remaining teaspoon of curry powder, and fry for two minutes, until aromatic. Add the cream, stock, raisins, lemon zest and juice, tarragon, half a teaspoon of salt and plenty of pepper, and cook for eight minutes, until the sauce is thick and rich. Return the chicken to the pan with the broccoli and half the cheddar, stir to coat, then tip into a high-sided, 20cm x 30cm baking dish.
Melt the remaining 20g butter and mix with the panko and remaining cheddar. Sprinkle over the chicken mix, then bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden brown and bubbling. Leave to rest for five minutes and serve hot with rice or mash.
Food styling: Emily Kydd. Prop styling: Jennifer Kay
